For anyone looking for stylish places to stay, good food and wine, beach clubs, history, culture and natural beauty, this robustly rustic land is difficult to beat
BY LEE MARSHALL AND LUCREZIA WORTHINGTON for Condé Nast Traveller – Back in the 1980s, when everyone was going to Chianti on villa holidays, few of us had even heard of Puglia. A decade later, word got out about the southern Italian region of fertile red earth, gnarled olives, turquoise seas, beautiful trulli and pioneering masseria hotels. All of a sudden, Puglia was proclaimed the New Tuscany – a little before it was ready. But in the aftermath of such hype, it has come into its own, maturing quietly and steadily out of the limelight. Now all those trailblazing converted farmhouses have been joined by sophisticated new arrivals that combine world-class design with the warmth and originality of the area.
How we choose the best hotels in Puglia
Every hotel on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has stayed at that property. When choosing hotels, our editors consider both luxury properties and boutique and lesser-known boltholes that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We’re always looking for beautiful design, a great location and warm service – as well as serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new hotels open and existing ones evolve.
Masseria Torre Maizza, Savelletri
A Mediterranean jungle crowned with grape vines and purple bougainvillaea leads you to the rooms and suites of Masseria Torre Maizza, a 15th-century farmhouse acquired by the Rocco Forte Hotel group in 2019. It faces the Adriatic Coastline with a sight of the deep blue sea on the horizon, connected to the Masseria via the Golf Course. The connection to the region through local craftsmanship is notable throughout – think Enza Fasano ceramics designed by Olga Polizzi, wicker and embroidered furnishings, and an eclectic colour palette that recalls the shades of nature. Nature is at the very heart of the Masseria, from Irene Forte Skincare amenities (the apricot shower gel smells so good it makes you want to eat it) to the cuisine, where Chef Fulvio Pierangelini curates a menu that showcases vegetables in all their facets. At the Carosello restaurant, lined with rosemary bushes and blue jasmine, don’t miss the lemon tart for pudding – which only seems fitting considering tables overlook the lemon grove. Aperitivi takes place by the swimming pool, where you can savour local wines and nibbles as Carmelo sings Italian classics as the sun sets. Morning workouts are in the outdoor gym, more akin to a tented safari camp with techno gym equipment. One of the latest acquisitions of Masseria Torre Maizza is Lido Bambù, a bohemian-inspired beach club with sombrero-like umbrellas and cushioned sun beds, where you can spend the day (and take the free shuttle bus) amongst turquoise waters.
Address: Contrada Coccaro 72015, Savelletri BR
La Peschiera, Monopoli
Settled on waters edge, La Peschiera is the perfect example of a meticulous restoration – from an ancient fishing reserve to one of the most exclusive, refined hotels in Puglia. Located along the Monopoli coastline, the dreamy beachside bolthole embraces a simple colour palette of whites and beiges that perfectly enhances the hypnotic deep blue sea that it overlooks. Here you live and breathe the Adriatic, waking up and falling asleep to the gentle rustle of the waves, and even dine above it on a suspended terrace, where fish is undoubtedly the starring ingredient of Chef Vincenzo Montanaro’s tasting menus. On the other side is a small, private beach, where you experience the leisurely rhythm of the Mediterranean.
Address: Contrada Losciale, 63 Frazione, 70043, Capitolo BA, Italy
Borgo San Marco, Fasano
A white-washed limestone façade represents years of history that date back to the 12th century, enclosing fragments of the past preserved as treasures in the cave church. But this heritage has had a contemporary dimension since 2002, when Alessandro and Virginia Amati acquired and restored the property. Today Borgo San Marco has 19 suites with rustic, country design, four poster beds and romantic drapes that gently dance in the morning breeze. The views here stretch across the horizon, over layers of centenary olive trees and ancient carobs and sprawl out to the Adriatic Sea. This is the side to catch the best sunrise. At the hotel’s restaurant, home-cooked, local cuisine is served to hotel guests and visitors. Order the ‘Fave e Cicoria,’ (fava bean purée with chicory), and drizzle with Borgo San Marco’s own extra virgin olive oil made on-site – it’s also just as lovely on bread with a sprinkle of salt.
Address: Contrada Sant’Angelo, 33, 72015 Fasano BR
Masseria Montenapoleone, Pezze di Greco
A long, narrow road with alternating rosemary and oleander bushes leads to an enchanted garden suspended between the countryside and the sea. Set out in the tiny hamlet of Pezze di Greco, eight minutes away from Torre Canne beach, Masseria Montenapoleone transports you to a dimension in which time is unimportant. Giuliano and Alessandra Monteneve created this artistic haven from an ancient cave settlement and live here today alongside their guests with their daughter Marcellina. They have paid particular attention to furnishings in which upcycled objects and vintage treasured finds from antique markets have been given a second life. The setting is a natural wonderland, composed of a variety of vegetation from fruit trees to flowers and herb gardens that leave a fragrant trail as you walk around the narrow stone-carved paths not only; in the mornings, you’ll find Chef Domenico Consoli picking fresh fruits and vegetables to cook at La Falegnameria restaurant. At Herbarium, the holistic spa, herbs are also used to create massage and aromatherapy oils that change on a seasonal basis. In the evening, book an aperitivo among the vineyards and watch the sunset as you savour a cocktail from the botanical bar or a glass of Primi Passi wine made from the native susumaniello grape from these very vineyards.
Address: C.da Bicocca n8, 72015, Pezze di Greco di FASANO BR, Italy
Masseria le Torri, Polignano a Mare
When you think of Polignano a Mare, you envision the large spurs of rocks that look over Cala Porto, that small, picturesque sandy beach. But there’s another side to scenic town – rolling green countryside with dense olive groves surrounding Masseria le Torri. Here Mimmo and Silvana welcome you to their home through small and kind gestures that truly make you appreciate family-run hotels. Now and again, you’ll see Silvana walk around with a little apron and a huge smile, often on her way to the kitchen to bake something delicious. The breakfast is a memorable spread of home-baked cakes (vegan and gluten-free, too) and your traditional savoury delicacies such as ricotta, primo sale, focaccia and capocollo. But the rooms within this masseria also leave their mark – a simple and delicate palette of white with only essential furnishings that recall farmhouses of the past. You’ll find charming little details like an olive branch in place of a wardrobe, reflecting the farmer’s habit of hanging his jacket on a tree before starting work in the fields. At night, a spray of lavender oil awaits you on your pillow.
