by John Brunton for The Guardian – Food and wine critic Andrea Grignaffini reveals his favourite haunts in his home city – a gourmand’s delight with wine bars galore.
Food
Food in Parma is all about our unique products – parmesan cheese, Parma ham – and the way we prepare them, as antipasti or as fillings for pasta. The best quality is found at the traditional salumerie and cheese shops on Piazza Ghiaia. Cibivari, half a mile away on Strada XXII Luglio, is a bakery and deli recently opened by the dynamic Roberta Boni, using local, seasonal produce in simple home cooking – focaccia, aubergine parmigiana. Take it away for a picnic or eat in at one of the small tables.
In Parma you are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining out. Inkiostro surprises me every time I go – its talented young chef, Salvatore Morello, creates exceptional fine dining menus, including a wonderful vegetarian version. For a complete contrast, try lunch (it doesn’t open in the evening) at Da Antonia, a typical, homely trattoria: eating there is like being in a 1950s Italian movie, with the signora stirring pots from early morning, and daily dishes that include trippa and succulent bollito misto.
Inspiration
I always find myself going back to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Steccata, where my father took me to mass when I was a child. The lavish interiors still take my breath away, and this is where my love for the baroque began. Just behind the basilica is the lesser-known Chiostri di San Giovanni , a magical 10th-century monastery that is the perfect place to listen to a choral concert. And the one thing all visitors must discover is the Teatro Farnese – . If you can’t get a ticket for a concert here, there is a good guided tour. I would happily be the caretaker and live here permanently.
