The northern Italian regions of Lombardy and Piedmont have a lot in common — historical cities, majestic mountains and an undeniable love affair with Gorgonzola PDO. Here, we hone in on five production areas celebrating this much-revered cheese.
BY SARAH BARRELL for National Geographic – One of the world’s oldest blue-veined cheeses, Gorgonzola PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) is the pride of Italy’s north. Produced in the regions of Piedmont and Lombardy (there are 15 provinces of production in total), the ‘king of blue cheeses’ is said to have originated in the 9th century and to have taken its name from the town of Gorgonzola, one of its original production centres just outside Milan. Straw-white, it comes in two varieties: creamy, soft, sweet Gorgonzola PDO dolce, and the stronger, spicier, more crumbly Gorgonzola PDO piccante. Made with whole pasteurised milk from the region’s cows, with no additives or preservatives, Gorgonzola PDO dolce is matured for a minimum of 50 days and a maximum of 150 days; the piccante, a minimum of 80 days and up to a maximum of 270 days.
A favourite in kitchens worldwide, its production is a rarefied process known only to a few. Here are the must-visit locations to indulge in the delicacy and learn more about the ‘king of blue cheeses’.
1. Northern Lombardy
The provinces of Bergamo and Brescia are a treat for the culinary traveller. Like many parts of Lombardy, there are some superb wine pairings for Gorgonzola PDO to be found here, including the ruby red DOCG Moscato di Scanzo, from the Bergamo region. The city of Bergamo, with its Città Alta old town high on a hill above the Po Valley plains, is a wonderful place to explore. Encircled by 16th-century Venetian walls, local restaurants are set in medieval buildings with vaulted ceilings where menus focus on hearty fare including polenta with Gorgonzola PDO. Just to the east, the city and surrounding province of Brescia is tucked at the foot of Alpine pastures. Gorgonzola PDO is just one of the many prized products of this European Region of Gastronomy. Try recipes rich with the blue-veined cheese, such as risotto, stuffed pastas and fresh salads.
2. Southern Lombardy
Located on the banks of the River Adda, the city and commune of Lodi is one of southern Lombardy’s key dairy producing areas. The region is renowned for its cheeses, many made by producers that date back over a century. Lodi’s rolling pasturelands are a verdant contrast to the handsome orderly architecture of the city’s Piazza della Vittoria, considered one of Italy’s most beautiful squares. Take an evening stroll and enjoy an aperitivo glass of Franciacorta — Italy’s DOCG sparkling wine made in a tiny area around the shores of Lake Iseo — with cicchetti (snacks) that focus on cheeses such as Gorgonzola PDO. The city of Cremona, known for its production of violas and violins played by the likes of Stradivari, is another elegant waterfront destination on the left bank of the Po. The region is renowned for its dairy pastures, with cheese and cured meats such as Cremona IGP salami featuring prominently on local menus. Don’t leave without trying the tortelli cremaschi (a sweet pasta stuffed with nuts and biscuits), the perfect pairing with Gorgonzola PDO.
3. Milan metropolitan
Milan and the lakes are one of northern Italy’s most sought-after travel spots for beauty, culture and the region’s exceptional cuisine. Another go-to destination for Gorgonzola PDO aficionados, this area has a storied past: Monza, just on the outskirts of Milan, was the Lombard capital in the 5th century, the seat of the Austrian royal house in the 1700s and of the Savoy family in the 1800s. Further afield, the town of Como and the ‘garden city’ of Varese, around 37 miles from Milan, offer tranquil charms and lakeshore landscapes. After exploring the area try favoured regional dishes including tagliatelle with Gorgonzola PDO, or regal purple fronds of radicchio — another prized product of Italy’s north — with Gorgonzola PDO cream, both recipes that are fit for Lombard royalty.
Right: Gorgonzola PDO has a wonderful flavour that is relatively mild in comparison to other blue-veined cheeses. This creamy texture works well in risottos and is the perfect balance of salty and sweet.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CONSORTIUM GORGONZOLA
4. Southern Piedmont
Bordering the French Alps, the handsome city of Cuneo is surrounded by the same-name province, also known as Provincia Granda thanks to its status as Italy’s third largest province and Piedmont’s largest. The city rises in a thin slice between the Stura and Gesso rivers, hence its name (cuneo means ‘wedge’) and was long coveted for its sheltered position by would-be rulers. Until Napoleonic-era sieges, it was protected by ancient walls, some still standing proud over Cuneo’s historic centre. Today, the region is known for its production of hazelnuts, white truffles, premium Cuneo crudo ham and, of course, Gorgonzola PDO, all of which creates a rich regional menu. Another beautiful riverside city in the cheese’s heartland is Casale Monferrato. East of Turin, on the banks of the Po, it’s been a strategic settlement since Roman times, and the scene of fierce battles between the Spanish and French in the 17th and 18th centuries. Surrounded by fertile Po Valley pastures, today Casale Monferrato is a tranquil place to explore, crowned by a grand cathedral that dates back to the 12th century.
5. Northern Piedmont
Known as the ‘blue province’ for its enviable location amid the Italian lakes, Verbania-Cusio-Ossola in northern Piedmont is also a famed producer of Italy’s premium blue cheese. Its neighbouring province of Novara is where the majority of Gorgonzola PDO is produced today. Home to Gorgonzola’s Protection Consortium since 1970, the province’s eponymous capital city is surrounded by flat pastureland, home to dairy cows and webbed with a network of footpaths and cycle paths. Several of its walking and cycling routes follow in the footsteps of Italian poet Dante Alighieri, whose The Divine Comedy features numerous places in the region. Work up an appetite and indulge in local dishes such as cotechino (pork sausage) with Gorgonzola PDO fondue, and risotto made with Piedmont’s prized, pearly white Carnaroli rice, with black carrot, wine vinegar, Gorgonzola PDO and caviar cream. Regional recipes, from sweet to savoury, use both varieties of Gorgonzola PDO, dolce and piccante, which are both classed as a soft cheese.
