Panettone takes the cake: How the Italian delicacy became a must-have for the holidays

The Globe and Mail – Panettone’s popularity in Canada has surged in recent years, quickly evolving from a seasonal staple at independent Italian delicatessens and bakeries into walls of colourful boxes confronting you in the checkout aisle of most grocery stores.

Since 2020, Italian Trade Agency initiatives to promote food made in Italy by small and mid-sized producers have done their part to increase awareness of the Christmas cake in North America. Add the charming aesthetic of panettone packaging and designer fashion brands collaborating with traditional bakeries on their own versions, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for a holiday luxury.

At Calgary specialty grocer Lina’s Italian Market, panettone accounts for about 60 per cent of holiday gift and gourmet sales. The traditional Italian sweet bread, which is often studded with dried fruits and flavoured with citrus or chocolate paste, is so important to the store’s bottom line that its offerings have swelled from 10 to 30 varieties over the past decade. When shipments were late or vendors couldn’t meet demand during the pandemic, Lina’s started making its own. “There’s chocolate boxes, there’s candied walnuts and chestnuts, but panettone is the Cadillac of your sales during the holidays,” general manager Matthew Rai said.